Visit
Mark Fellowes Nature Photography
S'Albufera is of course the most famous birding site in Mallorca, and one of the most important wetland reserves in Europe. I managed to visit twice over the holiday, once alone, and as I was so impressed, I had to return with family in tow, if only to share the scent of the wild garlic that lined many of the tracks through the marsh.
My first arrival was greeted by a locked gate, as I hadn't realised that the park didn't open until 9am. A park worker took pity on the poor birder standing forlornly with drooping scope, and let me in, so I had the park to myself for an hour, even if at the ire of another worker who didn't seem to believe my tale. The light was poor on each occasion - heavy cloud and a bit of a chill wind - but it didn't stop the birds. Sardinian (
Sylvia melanocephala; click any image throughout for larger) and Cetti's warblers (
Cettia cetti) were to be heard everywhere. Later on reed, sedge and a single moustached warbler added to the din. Little (
Egretta garzetta) and cattle egret (
Bubulcus ibis) along with night herons (
Nycticorax nycticorax), were busy nest building alongside the main canal.
I wandered to the nearest hide to be greeted by the evocative calls of stone curlew (
Burhinus oedicnemus), with five chasing around the edge of the water. It didn't take long for the highlight of my day - an osprey (
Pandion haliaetus) hunted over the marsh for 30 minutes, passing directly overhead. What I would have given for a decent background! The osprey was colour ringed, but it's not a British bird, and was probably ringed in Menorca.
If the osprey was the most charismatic bird, the one species that triumphed for sheer impressiveness was the swifts (
Apus apus), which dashed over the marshland in huge numbers, in this image hawking for insects around the distant osprey. They were joined by lower flying swallows and martins, which hunted over the open waters.
Moving back to the centre, I spent some time scanning the paddock where huge numbers of
flava yellow wagtails (
Motacilla flava) and a few white wagtails foraged for insects, and I also picked out a couple of hoopoes (
Upupa epops) feeding on worms in the damp soil.
Hoopoes have always been one of those near-mythical species for me and seeing one is always special. Perhaps this has something to do with being taught the fable of how they gained their crest when in primary school, and they appeared to be untouchably exotic. Apparently, Solomon demanded a show of fealty from all the animals, but noticed the hoopoe was missing. He was outraged, but calmed when told that the hoopoe had discovered a rich new land, ruled by a woman, the Queen of Sheeba. The hoopoes guided Solomon across the desert to Sheeba, shading him from the fierce desert sun by flying overhead. Solomon offered the hoopoes any reward they desired, and they asked for a golden crown, like his, to reflect their importance. Solomon queried if this is what they really wanted, and they said they did, so their wish was granted. They were overjoyed, and strutted in pride in front of the other birds. The other birds were jealous, and attacked the hoopoes, and men hunted the hoopoes to steal their golden crowns. Eventually, the hoopoes begged Solomon to take back his gift, which he did, but in his place he gave them their feathered crest to remind them of the consequences of pride. I suspect that the moral of the story went over our heads at age 6, but it has completely influenced how I think about hoopoes since then!
S'Albufera is home to a range of reintroduced species, species which are of significant conservation concern in mainland Spain, and which were hunted to extinction on Mallorca. The most common species is the red crested pochard (
Netta rufina), here preening. Purple gallinules (
Porphyrio porphyrio; do I really have to call them purple swamphens - it's a bit undignified) strutted on the margins of open water, regularly fighting. The most difficult reintroduced bird to connect with (at least those without collars which are the offspring of the original introductions) was the red-knobbed coot (
Fulica cristata), which are a bit more secretive than their more common cousins.
There were good numbers of Kentish and little ringed plovers around, but apart from a solitary redshank, the stone curlews and the ubiquitous black-winged stilts (
Himantopus himantopus) there was surprisingly few waders about. The black-winged stilts were mating, and several were already brooding eggs.
There's little doubt that S'Albufera is what makes Mallorca special - the sheer numbers and diversity of birds is incredible. It was well worth making the trip for this place alone.